Ahh… Lisbon. Sunny skies, beautiful clear blue waters, and such a stunning, colourful city that reminds you a little of Madrid, a little of Paris, and in parts… even a little of Zurich. Narrow streets zig zag their way down what seems to be a hill, with cobbled pavements and buildings crammed with restaurants, bars, cafes and shops all making their way to the crystal blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Lisbon is Europe’s westernmost capital city and the only one along the Atlantic coast. It’s one of the oldest cities in the world -- and this is apparent in the architecture that seems like it’s from another era altogether.
It’s the oldest city in western Europe, predating other modern European capitals such as London, Paris and Rome by centuries. Julius Caesar made it a municipium called Felicitas Julia, adding to the name Olissipo. Ruled by a series of Germanic tribes from the 5th century, it was captured by the Moors in the 8th century. In 1147, the Crusaders under Afonso Henriques reconquered the city and since then it has been a major political, economic and cultural centre of Portugal.
Another interesting fact … Unlike most capital cities, Lisbon's status as the capital of Portugal has never been granted or confirmed officially – by statute or in written form. Its position as the capital has formed through constitutional convention, making its position as de facto capital a part of the Constitution of Portugal.
We arrived in Lisbon on a warm sunny day. You soon realise that even if it’s warm in Portugal, the cool ocean breeze makes for a very pleasant day; it’s almost nippy at night. We had checked ourselves into a serviced apartment -- ready to make the most of living the life of a Lisbon local, but with some perks!
You soon realize that you really don’t need a ‘to-do’ list in Lisbon. You can literally step out of the door and there will be a hundred different cafes, restaurants, shops or bars to choose from. Each serves up a delicious fare, with food being fresh and well prepared. After eating a selection of local dishes, we walked along what seemed like a busy street, and jumping right onto an old wooden tram that literally made us feel like we were transported to another era.
If you’re headed to Lisbon for the first time, I’d strongly recommend a tour of the city via tram. It’s picturesque, comfortable, unique and very, very convenient. The wooden tram no. 28 makes its way through Lisbon’s prettiest streets and sights. It starts at the foot of Bairro Alto, and makes its way through the shopping areas of Baixa and Chiado. It also goes as far as Alfama -- Lisbon’s old historic quarters.
Alfama is a special place. Although all of Lisbon has a very old world charm, Alfama has it even more. During the times of Moorish domination, Alfama constituted the whole of the city, which later spread to the West (Baixa neighbourhood). Alfama soon became inhabited by fishermen and the poorer sections of society -- and its reputation as the ‘poor’ part of Lisbon continues till today. Some of the lanes in Alfama are exactly how they were several decades ago -- and your guide will point them out, apparent as they are in how narrow they seem. There are several important places to see in Alfama. Among the churches of the Alfama are Lisbon Cathedral (12th–14th centuries), the oldest of the city and located to the West of the neighbourhood, the Convent of the Grace (Convento da Graça, 18th century), near the Castle, the mannerist Monastery of São Vicente de Fora (late 16th–18th century), where the Kings of the House of Braganza are buried, and the baroque Church of Santa Engrácia (17th century), now converted into a National Pantheon for important Portuguese personalities. The Rua do Barão is one of the streets of the Freguesia da Sé, which begins at the Rua São João da Praça (where once stood the Door of the Alfama) and ends at Rua Augusto Rosa (at the Cathedral's walls). The toponym "Rua do Barão" is because João Fernandes da Silveira, the first Baron of Alvito, minister of Portuguese kings Dom Afonso V and Dom João II, lived here.
Tuk-tuks offer tours of the area, and if walking around isn’t your thing, feel free to hop onto one of these. Overlooking Alfama is one of my favourite sites in Lisbon -- the mediaeval Castle of São Jorge, royal residence until the early 16th century and now offering the best views of the city. Head there for a great photo-op, and soak in all the city has to offer.